Italy / 1978 / 18'

In the summer of 1977 the Como and Castellanza divisions of the Italian Alpine Club organized an expedition to Peru to reach the Cordillera Blanca range in the Andes. The expedition composed by Gianni Rusconi, Binaghi, Boreati, Cucchi, Porro, A. Rusconi, Sioli, Villa and Zocchi, travelled to Peru by air and then had a difficult march to the Cordillera Blanca area. The purpose of this expedition was to climb the west ridge of Pucaranra at an altitude of 6150 metres. The conquest of the peak was achieved in July 1977 after the rope had overcome bad weather conditions and the dangerous ice on the mountain side.



Gianni Rusconi, was born in Valmadrera on 28 March, 1943. He is an Alpine Guide and a Mountaineering National Instructor. After having climbed several times the hundreds of different ways on their home mountains such as the Corni di Canzo, the Grigne and the Resegone, Andrea Frigerio and Gianni Rusconi start to climb the traditional ways in the Dolomites, Mount Blanc and Cervino. In 1967 their passion for more and more difficult and new challenges, pushes them to attempt a winter ascent of the difficult and never repeated classic ways, or even to open new ways - and all taking place in winter.

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