The mountains often make you pay a heavy tribute. Recently Jean Marc Boivin joined those who had sacrificed their lives to conquer a peak. Another of these persons was Jerzy Kukuczka who holds with Messner the record of climbing 14 eight thousands. He died 150 metres under the top of Lhotse, the most difficult.
He preferred people to think he was a naturally strong man, not a sportsman. In fact he liked a drink and a cigarette. His climbings companions say he was the best. On that fatal day in October 1989 he climbed seventy metres without the help of any nails. At that altitude the brain is no longer aware of the world except intuitivity. The rule is to economize one's strength. Maybe that is why he did not use any nail.